Victoria’s Secret in the Crosshairs: Activist Onslaught Tests Leadership and Strategic Direction

Victoria's Secret in the Crosshairs: Activist Onslaught Tests Leadership and Strategic Direction

Victoria’s Secret & Co. finds itself at a critical juncture as activist investor Barington Capital Group launches a multi-front campaign to overhaul the lingerie giant’s governance and strategy. With shares plummeting 55% year-to-date and $2.4 billion in market value erased since its 2021 spin-off, the company faces mounting pressure to address operational missteps, leadership gaps, and strategic drift. Barington’s demands for board reconstitution and termination of the controversial “poison pill” defense mechanism highlight deepening investor skepticism about management’s ability to reverse the brand’s decline in an increasingly competitive intimate apparel market[1][7][8].

đź’Ľ Seasoned CorpDev / M&A / PE expertise

Anatomy of an Activist Campaign

Barington’s Strategic Playbook

James Mitarotonda’s Barington Capital brings a proven track record of retail turnarounds, having previously driven value creation at L Brands through its 2021 separation of Victoria’s Secret and Bath & Body Works[3][4]. The firm’s current 1% stake (with plans to increase) leverages three core arguments: governance failures evidenced by a board lacking brand revitalization expertise, questionable leadership appointments like CEO Hillary Super’s limited public company experience, and strategic misallocation of resources into secondary categories like Pink and athleticwear[1][2][8]. Barington’s analysis suggests refocusing on core bra products while accelerating digital/international expansion could recapture $1.8-2.2 billion in enterprise value[6][15].

The Poison Pill Paradox

Management’s May 2025 adoption of a limited-duration shareholder rights plan, triggered by BBRC International’s 13% stake accumulation, has become a flashpoint. While designed to prevent hostile takeovers through share dilution above 15% ownership thresholds, critics argue the defense mechanism entrenches underperforming leadership and discourages premium bids[9][10][14]. The board maintains the pill protects against “opportunistic accumulation” during market dislocation, but Barington counters that it exacerbates governance concerns by insulating directors from accountability[11][13].

Leadership Under the Microscope

CEO Credibility Crisis

Hillary Super’s nine-month tenure has failed to stem the bleeding, with Q1 2025 sales flat at $1.35 billion and FY operating income guidance cut by 11%[7][16]. Critics highlight her thin C-suite resume—prior leadership roles at Savage X Fenty and Anthropologie lacked comparable scale challenges—and question her strategic prioritization of non-core categories[2][8]. Employee surveys cited by activists suggest waning internal confidence, with only 34% of staff endorsing leadership’s vision in recent internal polls[6].

Board Composition Concerns

The current 11-member board’s average tenure of 7.2 years contrasts sharply with S&P 500 retail peers at 4.8 years. Only three directors have direct apparel experience, while key gaps exist in digital transformation (critical given 33% online sales mix) and Asian market expansion[1][15]. Barington’s proposed slate emphasizes directors with successful brand turnarounds like American Eagle Outfitters’ Jay Schottenstein and former Spanx CEO Jan Singer[4][6].

Financial Crosscurrents

Valuation Dislocation

At current $1.45 billion market cap, Victoria’s Secret trades at 0.3x sales versus Hanesbrands’ 0.7x and ThirdLove’s last private round at 4.1x[6][15]. The $625 million Adore Me acquisition—purchased at 1.8x sales versus industry median 1.2x—has yet to demonstrate promised synergies, generating just $12 million in Q1 cross-selling revenue[7][16]. Tariff impacts loom large, with $50 million FY25 cost headwinds potentially eroding already thin 6.8% EBITDA margins[7][13].

Balance Sheet Pressures

While the company maintains $450 million liquidity ($300 million revolver + $150 million cash), debt/EBITDA stands at 3.8x versus covenant limit of 4.25x. Activist proposals call for monetizing $200-300 million in real estate assets through sale-leasebacks—a tactic Barington successfully deployed at Darden Restaurants[4][14]. However, management resists, arguing physical stores remain crucial for brand experience and bra fitting services[11][15].

Sector Implications and Precedent Analysis

Retail Activism Trends

Victoria’s Secret joins Bed Bath & Beyond and Kohl’s in facing simultaneous campaigns from multiple activists—a 78% increase from 2022 levels per Harvard Law data. Successful playbooks emphasize digital pivots (Best Buy), category rationalization (Macy’s), and international franchising (Guess). Failed campaigns often share Victoria’s Secret traits: over-indexed on legacy channels, slow e-commerce migration, and insular boards[4][6][15].

Historical Precedents

The 2013 Darden Restaurants battle provides instructive parallels—Barington’s initial pressure laid groundwork for Starboard Value’s successful proxy fight. Similarly, L Brands’ 2019 settlement with Barington (adding two independent directors) preceded the value-unlocking spin-off[3][4]. Current management risks repeating Leslie Wexner’s initial resistance, which destroyed $1.1 billion in value before capitulation[3][8].

Pathways to Resolution

Negotiated Settlement Scenarios

Likely outcomes range from board refreshment (3-4 new directors) to full strategic review. Middle-ground solutions could include: 1) Adding Barington-nominated directors with digital/merchandising expertise 2) Sunsetting the poison pill contingent on 12-month TSR targets 3) Divesting non-core assets like Pink to fund share buybacks[1][6][14]. The wildcard remains BBRC’s 13% stake—a potential kingmaker if aligned with activists[9][10].

Long-Term Brand Challenges

Even with governance changes, Victoria’s Secret must address structural issues: 27% US market share loss since 2019 to upstarts like Skims and Savage X Fenty, generational brand perception gaps (only 18% of Gen Z view VS as “relevant”), and supply chain inflexibility (45% Asian sourcing exposure)[6][15]. Successful turnarounds in the space—like American Eagle’s Aerie—required $300+ million digital investments and complete marketing overhauls over 3-5 year horizons[4][15].

Daily M&A/PE News In 5 Min

Conclusion: Inflection Point for an Icon

Victoria’s Secret’s response to Barington’s campaign will likely determine whether this 45-year-old brand can adapt to 21st-century retail realities. With activists holding 14%+ of shares and bond yields pressuring valuation multiples, management has 6-9 months to demonstrate operational traction before facing existential choices. The path forward requires balancing activist demands with customer-centric innovation—a tightrope walk that will test whether this lingerie titan can rediscover its missing magic.

Sources

 

https://mt.fashionnetwork.com/news/Victoria-s-secret-faces-fresh-activist-fight-from-barington-capital,1740911.html, https://www.foxbusiness.com/markets/activist-investor-calls-victorias-secret-board-overhaul-amid-losses, https://www.retaildive.com/news/activist-investor-calls-for-l-brands-to-shed-victorias-secret/549940/, https://thehedgefundjournal.com/barington-s-15-years-of-value-oriented-activist-investing/, https://www.modernretail.co/retailers/the-immediate-winner-after-a-victorias-secret-split-bath-body-works-begins-to-forge-its-own-path/, https://www.ainvest.com/news/victoria-secret-activist-pressure-ignite-strategic-turnaround-2506/, https://www.benzinga.com/markets/mid-cap/25/06/45953427/victorias-secret-proxy-pressure-stock-decline, https://www.tradingview.com/news/reuters.com,2025:newsml_L1N3SG12O:0-victoria-s-secret-faces-fresh-activist-fight-from-barington-capital-source-says/, https://www.retaildive.com/news/victorias-secret-adopts-poison-pill-halt-takeover-bbrc-international/748690/, https://www.investing.com/news/stock-market-news/victorias-secret-stock-rises-on-poison-pill-adoption-93CH-4055867, https://www.thefashionlaw.com/behind-the-poison-pill-victorias-secrets-fight-for-control/, https://www.ncis.org/sites/default/files/TIS%20Vol.9%20FINAL.pdf, https://economictimes.com/news/international/us/victorias-secret-share-price-rises-as-lingerie-maker-goes-for-poison-pill-plan/articleshow/121296621.cms, https://www.ainvest.com/news/victoria-secret-activates-poison-pill-thwart-blundy-takeover-bid-2505/, https://www.perplexity.ai/page/victorias-secret-shares-rise-a-99znaon_Ts6B1o0AOzDgVg, https://www.investopedia.com/victorias-secret-stock-rises-on-report-activist-investor-seeks-board-overhaul-11755079

Get M&A headlines on X!